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06+ injector harness
This is what your factory harness will look like. This conversion was done on a bench, it can be performed in the truck but will make it a bit more tricky.
Cut factory ends from the harness. Scary but you will be ok!
Peel back all the wire loom and tape until you have sufficient amount of wiring exposed.
Now you will need to crimp the new terminals onto the end of each wire. Some of the wires will need to be shortened down from the original back 6 pin plug for the new center 4 pin plug, the center plug is for cylinders 3 and 4. Reference the pin out chart for where to insert each injector wire into the new 4 pin plugs.
Wire Pin-Out List
Driver 1 Common- Brn/Lt Grn
Driver 2 Common- Tan/Pnk
1 Cntrl – Brn/Ylw
2 Cntrl- Brn/Dk Bl
3 Cntrl- Tan
4 Cntrl- Brn/ Tan
5 Cntrl- Gray
6 Cntrl- Brn/Vio
1 Driver- Org/ Brn
2 Driver- Yel/ Brn
3 Driver- Gray/ Brn
4 Driver- White/ Brn
5 Driver- Lt Bl/Brn
6 Driver- Lt Grn/ Brn
1 Ctrl – Brn/Yel
2 Ctrl- Brn/Dk Blu
3 Ctrl- Tan
4 Ctrl- Brn/ Tan
5 Ctrl- Gry
6 Ctrl- Brn/ Vio
This is how your harness should now look once competed and re wrapped with wire loom and tape.
In the shop, we see truck and after truck day in and out. Over time parts simply wear out. Today we come across a 7.3L Powerstroke truck that you could tell had been used for work most of it's life. The truck come in for other mechanical issues and the air intake wasn't noted on the work order.
Upon tear down, our mechanic noticed the air intake was very weak, and seemed very ragged. After digging in, you can see the dirt and grime that got past the K&N filter setup that was placed in the factory Air Box.
This was the filter inside of the AirBox:
Continuing on tearing down the stock air box the mechanic discovery a penny side hole in the intake tube.
A proper functioning intake is a high priority item for any engine. It keeps dust, grime, rocks, and all the harmful elements out of your motor. Luckily for this one, we caught it in time before any major damage was done.
We replaced the factory air box, with a new Tymar performance intake. The best bang for your buck intake for any 7.3 Powerstroke.
Any questions for concerns, please email mail us at firstname.lastname@example.org, or live chat on our homepage at http://www.bdpshop.com
The BDP Staff.
Duramax Filter Part Numbers:
Chip Revision & Changes
These tunes are dyno proven and tested on hundreds of applications. If you require additional tuning for idle, shift changes, or other aftermarket upgrades we have a price schedule so you can estimate the cost for changes. If your 7.3 has very extensive modifications further "custom" tuning may be needed. We highly recommend such builds to come to our shop for Live Tuning, this is the most efficient way to get the absolute best performance from a big high performance build. For pricing and more information about Live Tuning please email email@example.com.
REBURN FEE - $25 This base charge for any changes being made. If we put your chip on the burner to make changes for any reason, you are subject to receiving this fee in addition to other tuning fees.
REVISION FEE - $30 Anytime you require changes to your current tunes, we charge $30 per tune to customize the tune for your setup.
CHANGING TUNES $$$ - If you upgrade to aftermarket parts and require tunes for a modified truck or you wish to swap to another tune you would like to try, we charge the difference between the tune you currently have and the new tune plus the reburn fee. If your new upgrades are purchased through Beans Diesel Performance you are eligible for a free tune upgrade to match your new performance parts, reburn fees may still apply.
REFORMAT FEE $25- Charged for reformatting a chip to match your chip burner.
Download the software file:
The TS Chip burning software can be downloaded in a zipped file here:
When the window pops up, select Save File and OK.
It will download to your selected download location*. Locate the downloaded file and notice the zipper on the file. It is important to know how to deal with these files because most tunes you order will come in a zipped folder for data integrity.
*If you do not know your download location some places to look are the Desktop, in the My Documents->Downloads Folder, the (Current User)->Downloads Folder, or run a file search for TSsetup.zip
Working with Compressed (zipped) Folders:
The folder with a zipper on it means it is compressed and the contents inside must be extracted before they can be used. This applies to anyone using Windows XP or newer. Other operating systems will follow the directions that apply to dealing with compressed zipped files and require you to find your own support. We can get the files to you but this software was designed for a Windows OS with XP or newer installed.
1. Navigate to the folder containing the compressed file you are trying to open or use. What you will see next depends on if you have a third party software installed for dealing with compressed files or if you are using the standard Windows utility.
2. Double-click the Zipped file. This should extract all the files at once. If not, there may be a button that appears that says 'Extract all Files'. If that button does not appear in the window, Right click the zipped file and look for 'Extract all' or 'Open File with... Compressed (zipped) Files. If you are using a third party program, open it and look for a option to 'Extract All' files.
3. The Extraction Wizard dialog box will appear. Click the Next button.
You will see the Select a Destination dialog box. If you simply click the Next button, the extracted files land in the folder-file where the Zip file is currently located. (Another folder will appear in the same containing folder and it will NOT have a zipper on it.) Otherwise you need to choose a location on your computer, like the desktop, where you can easily find the files so you can use them. Click the Next button.
4. The Extraction Complete dialog box appears. Click the Finish button.
You see the extracted files in a new Windows Explorer window. From here, you can open a file or move files elsewhere. Click the Folders button to see where the folder with the extracted files is located on your computer.
5. Delete the Compressed (zipped) Folder. I recommend deleting the original downloaded zipped folder if you are burning tunes. Locate and DELETE THE FOLDER WITH THE ZIPPER after you successfully unzip the files.. Leave the other folder and this way you are sure to select the file containing the files with the correct file size.
If you try to burn the chip with the compressed files it will have to be reformatted because you are using the incorrect file for the burner.
Using the TS Pro chip burning software:
Open the setup file for the TS Pro software that you downloaded and unzipped above. Install the software using the wizard and open the program.
DO NOT RUN OTHER PROGRAMS WHILE YOU ARE BURNING A CHIP!
DO NOT TURN THE SWITCH WHEN ERASING OR PROGRAMMING A CHIP!
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CLICK ON A ZIPPED FILE !
DO NOT LET THE CHIP LOOSE CONNECTION WITH THE PORT ON THE BURNER, OR UNPLUG THE POWER OR USB CABLES!
Burning a chip
1. Your power cord and USB are NOT hooked up. Check this first.
2. Connect you switch to your chip, install the chip firmly on the burning port with the switch cord facing up. It should push all the way on the port.
3. Hook up the USB and power cord. Open the setup file for the TS Pro software.
4. Use the mouse to click the top button that reads "1 Position" until it says "6 Position" if you have 6 tunes to fill up the chip, otherwise select the number of positions you are about to fill on the chip.
5. Make sure the switch is in the #1 position (all the way to the left). Click the Erase button.
6. Select module type window will appear. Select "New user selectable 1-6 Position"
7. Erase each position of the chip. The software will beep and tell you the position is erased. Select the next position on the switch and hit OK to erase the next position, Repeat until you have erased the whole chip. The first position takes several seconds longer to erase than the rest of the positions.
8. After the chip is erased, you are brought back to the main TSPro window.
9. Turn the switch back to the #1 position.
10. With the correct number of positions still selected, click the 'Program' button. Select the module type "New user selectable 1-6 Position".
11. In the next window that opens you need to locate the file containing your downloaded and unzipped tunes. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SELECT A ZIPPED FILE! Make sure the switch is in the #1 position. Select the tune you want to burn in the first position. Click Open or OK. The software will immediately start burning the chip.
12. After the first chip position is reprogrammed, it will beep and a window will pop up prompting you to turn the switch, THEN select the file for the next position. Repeat until all the chip positions are filled. If anything happens and the chip burning is interrupted, you need to start over, erasing and programing the chip.
13. When the chip burning is complete, close the TS software, unplug the power and USB cables, then take out the chip.
This document describes locating the computer, getting computer code, & installing a 6-position chip in a 94.5-03 7.3L Power Stroke.
1. The vehicles key must be removed and the ignition must be off before starting and throughout the entire computer removal process. If power is on to the computer at any time during the install the computer and chip are at risk of permanent damage. If you are worried about power still being drawn due to aftermarket radio or security, for example, you can disconnect your battery cables.
2. Raise the hood, and look underneath the brake master cylinder, next to the driver’s fender. Locate the wiring harness with the 10mm bolt in its center on the firewall. There are three different wiring harness blocks in this general area, locate the one nearest the drivers fender. Completely loosen the 10mm bolt and pull the wiring block out of the computer.
3. Inside the cab, the computer is located in front of the parking brake pedal, and to the far left of the under the driver’s side dash area. There are two 7mm bolts holding the black plastic computer sleeve to the metal computer mounting bracket at the rear of the computer. Remove these first. The computer is mounted in a metal bracket held in place by two 10mm fasteners. The first 10mm bolt is located above the top of the computer and through the metal bracket, it threads into the left side (drivers side) of the under dash kick panel area. The other 10mm nut is at the bottom of the computer on the firewall of the truck. Remove both 10mm fasteners now.
1995 thru 1997 Power Stoke owners will have to remove the emergency pedal assembly by removing three 13mm mounting bolts to gain access to their computer. You will also need to pull the driver's side fender liner to access the PCM wiring harness.
IMAGES COMING SOON
4. Pull the computer from the firewall and away from the metal bracket. Slide the black plastic sleeve from the computer. Note how the computer is oriented in the black plastic sleeve for re-installation purposes later (the pictured case is cut so the orientation of the J3 port can be seen).
5. If you are obtaining the PCM or DPC code, locate the label on the end of the computer with the barcode.
In this example, the DPC code is DPC-462 and the PCM code is VDH5.
The J3 port – chip connection is also labeled.
1. Find a well lighted, dry, and clean work area. This is very important. Remove the black plastic access port cover on the end of the computer opposite of the wiring block connector. Some covers are attached with a screw but most are snapped into place. Remove the plastic port cover.
2. Modify the black plastic computer cover so the J3 port can be accessed without removing the computer. This is also necessary so the chip will fit. Cut out the section required leaving the part of the bracket with bolt holes in tact.
3. After removing the cover, the printed circuit board J3 port will be visible to you. This MUST BE CLEANED completely if this is the first time a chip has been installed on the computer. If it is already clean from prior use, double check the contacts and move to the next step.
DO NOT clean the J3 port contacts down to the copper! IF YOU ERODE THE SILVER MATERIAL BY OVER CLEANING, IT CAN DAMAGE YOUR COMPUTER AND CHIP!
DO NOT clean any other part of the board except the area the chip connects to!
DO NOT push down on the printed circuit board with enough force to crack the board!
DO NOT spray any cleaning chemicals into the computer!
The J3 port edge connector has both a top and a bottom; both must be cleaned for a good connection with the chip. You can remove the case to make cleaning easier, but ONLY clean the area the chip connects to, not any other part of the computer.
The J3 port is coated from the factory with a clear lacquer and sometimes a silicone grease covering. Remove the silicone coating with a clean soft cloth dampened with brake cleaner, lacquer thinner, alcohol, or carburetor cleaner. After removing the silicone, use a Scotchbrite pad to remove the lacquer coating, but not the silver contacts. This is best accomplished by using the Scotchbrite to carefully scrub off the waxy coating by using gentle pressure and checking the contacts often. You want to be able to use your finger nail to scrape the board and not feel any coating material left, but be careful not to over clean and remove the silver material on the contact tracks of the computer board. If you start seeing a copper color show through, stop immediately. When no more coating material can be felt, wipe the J3 port dry with another clean soft cloth, removing for any debris you find.
4. After the J3 port has been properly cleaned, you are ready to install your 6 position chip. Install the switch connector to the chip with the fastening tab facing up.
Press the chip into place on the J3 port until it is firmly seated on the J3 port. The chip should be flush with the top, bottom and edge of the computer metal case. If the computer identification label and barcode are facing up, the chip will be installed with the switch connector facing up.
5. Finally use tape to secure your chip to the computer case by using one wrap of tape over the chip and over the top and bottom of the computer.
1. From inside the truck, install the computer into the metal bracket and push the computer through the rubber grommet in the trucks firewall. The bar code on the computer has to face the driver’s side fender when installed correctly. Replace the computer and plastic cover in the original location.
2. Under the hood, reconnect the wiring block and snugly tighten the wiring block 10mm bolt. Replace the other 10mm bolt in the metal bracket by the driver’s side kick panel area.
3. Turn the ignition on in the truck and observe the "check engine light". The "check engine light" should turn off. If the check engine or other lights are on, the computer is in limp mode and your contacts were not sufficiently cleaned. Retrace all the removal, cleaning, and re-installation steps to insure a good connection between the computer and chip.
4. Mount the switch in the desired dash location. Use a 2mm allen head to remove the knob. Remove the thin gold nut. If you are installing the switch plate, you can remove and discard the locking washer. Be careful that the tabbed washer remains in the correct location otherwise the switch will not have the correct number of positions. We recommend removal of the locating tab with a pair of side cutters so the switch sits flush. The locating tab can be used if an extra hole is drilled but the hole will show outside of the switch knob and is not recommended.
Use the appropriate size drill bit for the desired location you wish to install the switch knob. Push the switch post through the dash, put on the switch plate, then tighten the gold flat nut. Make sure to tighten the nut carefully to avoid damage to the dash, but switch post needs to be able to turn without turning the entire switch behind the dash. Position and install the knob, tightening the allen head bolt.
5. Enjoy the performance and power of your new 6 position chip!! Call Bean’s Diesel Performance customer service if you have any questions at 615-563-7800 or email at at firstname.lastname@example.org. You can also check the 7.3L Chip & Tuning FAQs and the 7.3L Tune Descriptions & Horsepower Rating for more info!
*Almost all chip related problems are related to contact between the chip and computer. The silicone must be cleaned completely from the J3 port on the computer but not to the point that copper is showing on the contacts. If the computer is cleaned too far, there is not a good connection for the chip. On some trucks that have used chips in the past, a poor connection, or removing and reinstalling chips repeatedly can cause the contacts to wear excessively and require the contacts be re-soldered.
Symptoms of chip contact problems:
Common CHIP problems:
Silicone is still present on the computer contacts.
|Clean lightly with Scothbrite pad until silicone can no longer be felt. Do not over-clean the board.|
The computer contacts have been cleaned too far and copper is showing.
|The computer contacts must be built back up. Professional soldering equipment is recommended.|
Truck will not start with chip in, but starts without chip. There is no ‘Wait to Start’ light. Above contact issues have been ruled out.
|Chip is possibly programmed for the incorrect PCM code, contact BDP.|
The chip seems to be using the tune from the first position regardless of the switch position.
|Check the chip switch. If the switch goes bad, the programming reverts back to the first chip position.|
The chip loses connection going over bumps or under hard acceleration or breaking.
|Check contacts for damage. If no damage is visible, the chip can be secured on the computer port using tape.|
There are more than 6 positions on the switch. *OR* There are too few positions on the switch.
|The lock washer located under the quarter nut is in the wrong location. Loosen the nut and place washer in the correct switch position. (Pic in 7.3L Chip Install guide)|
*All of BDPs custom tunes were created on a load bearing dyno and tested in various horsepower applications with professional scanning and diagnostic equipment. When additional tuning is requested, it almost always comes down to a mechanical problem. In order to fully benefit from custom tuning or any other aftermarket modification, it is critical to make sure all mechanical components are performing adequately.
Tuning related issues:
Common MECAHNICAL problems:
|What to check:|
Low pressure fuel is dropping pressure.
|Tap into fuel bowl (Super Duty) or the schrader valve (94-97 trucks) using a mechanical gauge, check your fuel pressure. A healthy reading should be 68-65psi and not drop at wide open throttle. Anything lower indicates a fuel restriction or a weak pump.|
The high pressure oil pump is not keeping up.
|In the hot tune, using a scan tool check the injection control pressure, injection control pressure desired, and the IPR duty cycle. A healthy pump will build and desire up to 2800-3000psi and the IPR duty cycle should remain below 45%. A higher duty cycle or lower ICP indicates a weak HPOP.|
There are one or more injectors that need to be replaced.
|Use a scan tool to perform an injector buzz test. Replace any failing injectors.|
There is a boost leak.
|Check intercooler boots, clamps and couplers for leaks. If no leaks can be found, pressurize the system to check for boost leaks. Peak boost in our hot tune for a stock turbo should be at least 30psi.|
There is an exhaust leak.
|Check for cracks or soot accumulation around up-pipes, manifolds, intakes, etc.|
There is a problem with the under valve cover wiring harness.
|Usually when an entire bank of injectors stops firing, one of these harnesses has a problem or has gone bad.|
The computer is fried.
|There is no ‘Wait to Start’ light and the vehicle will not start with or without a chip installed. This usually occurs when a chip is not installed properly or loses connection while the engine is running.|
*Many times there are problems related to the installation of other parts like injectors, HPOP or turbos. If you experience new problems when the chip is installed along with new parts, you can always pull the chip out and see if the same problems exist. If you are running aftermarket injectors, HPOP or turbo, you can still start and run the engine without the chip installed. You can experience a touchy throttle and rough idle if you are replacing split shot injectors with single shot injectors or are running an aftermarket HPOP. For testing purposes, the vehicle can run without the chip to be sure there are no other mechanical problems.
See the 7.3L Tune Descriptions & Horsepower Rating for more details.
STOCK - Completely stock driving tune with added timing safety parameters. For larger injectors fuel has been pulled to simulate a true stock tune.
NO START - The vehicle will not start when the switch is in this position for anti-theft purposes, most people will install the switch in a discrete location if used for this reason.
HIGH IDLE - The engine will idle higher for cold weather warm-up, jump starting, running a PTO or other accessories, or to prevent "wet stacking" in long idle intervals. Idle tune only; not for driving. Select your desired idle speed.
TOW* - Safe horsepower tune to keep EGTs low while hauling or towing for all load sizes for stock and stage 1 injectors. For stage 2 injectors and higher, it it for towing less than 10,000lbs.
HEAVY TOW* - Only for stage 2 injectors and higher. Additional fuel has been pulled to control EGTs for loads heavier than 10,000lbs.
ECONOMY - This is a low horsepower tune setup to provide the best fuel economy at cruising speeds. It has less power than the daily driver tune so it can be used once you get up to cruising speed. Fuel economy varies greatly depending on the condition of engine and parts from one truck to another so mileage increases are not guaranteed.
DAILY DRIVER - This moderate horsepower tune is designed to have about 20% less power than the performance tune and less aggressive shifting. It provides a nice balance between the economy and performance tune, making power without killing mileage.
PERFORMANCE (HOT) - Our #1 selling dyno proven tune. This tune provides the best power for your configuration but is designed to be street driven so EGTs stay safe.
WHISPER - In this tune, the idle is quieter for drive thru service so the engine does not have to be turned off. Idle tune only; not for driving.
VALET - Reduced power tune for situations usually where you want to limit the speed, usually when others are driving your truck! Reduce the wear & tear on company trucks by installing this tune in the first position of the chip and removing the switch for other drivers.
EXHAUST BRAKE - Uses the turbo exhaust back pressure valve to slow the engine down. We recommend placing the tune in the position next to the tow tune so you can use this tune when you need to slow down. This tune is for deceleration only.
SMOKE SHOW - Off road only tune. Increased fueling to provide huge amounts of black smoke. Watch your EGTs in this tune and please use responsibly!
LOPE - Big cam lope sound for fun. This tune turns heads and impresses the ladies.
LOPE & SMOKE - The ultimate show off tune for idle and driving situations. Watch your EGTs in this tune and please use responsibly!
SLED PULLING* - More fuel is added to spool the turbo quickly and custom shifting changes are made for automatic transmissions for pulling a sled. Gauges are critical when using this tune to alert you to any mechanical problems.
DRAG RACING* - Shift points and firmness are optimized drag racing. Fuel and timing values are designed to give the truck "all it's got" so boost and pyrometer gauges are critical when using this tune to alert you to any mechanical problems.
DYNO* - All out tune for dyno runs designed to make peak hp. Locks the truck in gear and extends the shift points, if it is an automatic.
*POWER ADDER - If you are using nitrous, water meth or other power adders we setup the tune accordingly. Choose your power adder and purpose so we optimize your power adder.
*ALTERNATE FUEL - Using an alternate fuel in your 7.3L can help keep your fuel budget in check. This tune is setup to maintain performance while using vegetable oil or other bio diesel. You can select this as just one tune or for all of your tunes.
These numbers are based on average readings we have seen on our dyno. All numbers are based on trucks with proper supporting modifications, adequate engine compression, and other healthy mechanical parts.
No start - zero horsepower
Not for driving. Deceleration only.
Not for driving. Idle only.
Not for driving. Idle only.
Not for driving. For off-road show only.
|LOPE & SMOKE||
Not for driving. For off-road show only.
Depends greatly on setup.
Varies, usually based on stock tune.
*More info to come.